Nakamura Visits South African Chess Events

GM Hikaru Nakamura galvanizes the park in downtown Johannesburg. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC. FM   MikeKlein    South Africa ...

Nakamura Visits South African Chess Events
GM Hikaru Nakamura galvanizes the park in downtown Johannesburg. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.


South Africa doesn't show up on these news pages often, but a flurry of events took place this month in Johannesburg. Local chess officials wanted to put their country more on the world chess map, and pulled out all the stops to do just that.
More than 2,500 scholastic players from all over the country converged to compete in the 2017 South African Junior Chess Championships (the event took place this January 3-12, during the kids' summer break, but the event officially crowned championship teams and individuals for 2017).
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The end of summer break in South Africa means the beginning of the country's biggest chess event of the year. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
During the London Chess Classic in December, South African organizers persuaded  GM Hikaru Nakamura to join as the marquee guest. The super-GM participated in a variety of events, from the public finals of the Speed Chess Championship, to a 100-board simul, to an afternoon blitz session in a raucous downtown park. The well-traveled professional just cleared one million lifetime miles on United Airlines, but he had never touched African soil before this January (despite being able to see Morocco from the Gibraltar Chess Festival, where he is an annual player and often winner).
Lekker One-On-One Match, Then Thousands of Kids
Before the gigantic team event took place under the intense African sun, Nakamura was the first to do battle. He played his Speed Chess Championship final in a hotel auditorium in front of a (paid!) crowd of several hundred, while GM Magnus Carlsen had the solitude of an empty room.
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Every seat taken for watch the Speed Chess Championship final in person—the empty seats at top left were for this reporter's gear! | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
Is this the beginning of chess as an e-sport? Perhaps. Nakamura had of course agreed to this before traveling, and when given the option, he chose to face the crowd during the match as his moves were displayed on twin projection screens behind him.
This would also seem to be the first-ever high-profile chess match where the local smoked meat called biltong was on the player's platter. Even if the match didn't go his way, Nakamura developed quite an affinity for the South African treat.
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Nakamura didn't net as many wins as he wanted, but just next to his mouse-moving hand is all the biltong he could care to eat. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
The next morning, the kids came out to play the first of seven rounds in the team tournament. How did this differ from other large scholastic events around the world? The swaths of junior players wore matching team uniforms, with everything from colorful t-shirts to suit jackets and ties. Also, the teams were 10 players deep, much larger than the four-on-four for adult team matches.
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The massive competition begins! | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
In addition to this Olympiad-type sartorial unison, the squads also came with crests of their local chess club or province—a real "Braveheart meets chess" moment.
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Several Johannesburg Metro teams placed first, maybe because they remembered to hydrate (the summer temperatures reached 37C or about 99F). | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
Nakamura Makes a Braai Out of Park Players
Outside of his stepfather, Nakamura never had a traditional chess coach. His rise to the world's elite was thanks to both the internet and to games in the park. So, you might think he'd be right at home accepting an invitation to play the hustlers in downtown Johannesburg's Joubert Park. He readily agreed, but what was he getting into? 
New York City this was not. Manhattan's Washington Square Park, with its iconic chess tables in the southwest corner, has benefited greatly from the city's property-value increases and general safety improvements in the last few decades. Joubert Park, however, is on the edge of Hillbrow, once a whites-only symbol of Apartheid, then a progressive mixed zone, but now one of the poorest neighborhoods in Johannesburg.
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Standing-room only to watch the master. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
Just Google the park's name and you'll inevitably come across stories with themes like "the city that once was" and other eulogies of the area's more placid times. As one player pointed out in a Facebook post that captured the excitement of the afternoonGM Maurice Ashley didn't venture into the park on his visit to South Africa.
Nowadays, the park is vacated by even locals at night due to safety. No such drama ensnared Nakamura during his visit, at least none away from the chessboard (well, not counting one inebriated bystander who snuck a kiss on his neck as he was leaving).
The crowd initially regaled the grandmaster, then set about the task of trying to beat him. They parted way for him to enter the cave against the city's best blitz players.
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The Southern Hemisphere version of Rensch-Vachier-Lagrave? Nakamura also tried his hand (and feet!) at giant blitz. | Photo: Lennart Ootes/SAJCC.
Nakamura offered 10-1 money odds (10 Rand to 100 Rand, or about $0.80 USD to $8.00 USD) and also 3-1 time odds. It wasn't his intention to win money, but as was explained to him by hosts, none of these games take place without some sort of wager.
As he began to dispatch one opponent after the other, the crowd elbowed its way in for a clearer view. Standing atop trash cans and bracing themselves with overhanging tree branches, the onlookers weren't interested in the traditional protocols of tournaments. Phones were on while heckling became a competition: "Are you on Facebook? I do not 'like' that move." One commenter to a video posted remarked: "The crowd is like a real-life Youtube comments section."
Only one player managed to scavenge a win from the visiting grandmaster. IM Johannes Mabusela, recent winner of the 2017 South African Closed Championship, mated a wayward Nakamura king as the American's time ticked away.
How do park locals celebrate the victory of a lifetime?


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Welcome to Dare Lasisi's blog!: Nakamura Visits South African Chess Events
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